October 2 through January 9, 2011 Photography Exhibit Wilderness Visions of America by Clyde Butcher A nationally recognized conservationist, Clyde Butcher uses his stunning photography to preserve natural environments throughout the nation. This exhibit features immense and startlingly beautiful black-and-white views that capture some of the most well-known national parks in America. The impeccable collection of large silver-gelatin prints, some 7 ft. wide by 5 ft. high, will make visitors feel as if they have traveled across the nation and landed in the middle of these pristine landscapes. | ||||||||||||
Yosemite National Park, California This was another early morning shot that was taken before the Merced River became a rushing torrent of melted snow. Because the river was calm I was able to use the reflection as part of the composition. With the clear blue sky I was able to use a red filter, which accentuated the up-thrust of El Capitan into a dark sky, making for a very clean composition. Big Cypress National Preserve, Florida For some time I had wanted to take a shot of a full moon over the Everglades. I had been tracking the moon phases of the calendar for months waiting for the proper time…when the angle of the moon and sun align for the best effect. When the day came, I took my camera out into the ‘glades, set it up on top of my ten-foot wooden ladder, in order to get a perspective over the tops of the dwarf cypress trees, and waited. When the clouds cooperated to create a nice composition, I snapped the shutter…it didn’t work! I took the lens off, pried the shutter open, put the lens back on the camera, and used a dark slide as a shutter, guessing at the exposure time. Badlands National Park, South Dakota We were only at the Badlands for 24 hours, but WOW, what a wondrous time it was! A violent storm, complete with tornadoes, ripped through the area. I photographed like mad trying to capture the sun hitting the landscape as it popped in and out of the dark storm clouds. By the end of the day the sky was totally black with no sun. The next morning I woke up at our normal 4:00 am and looked out the window to see that there wasn’t a star or even a glimmer of light on the horizon. Thinking the sun was going to be blocked out by the clouds, I went back to bed. I lay there for a few minutes and changed my mind. As we drove out of the parking lot the sun began to break through a slit in the clouds. In front of me was this wonderful formation with dark storm clouds behind it and the sun starting the process of brilliantly lighting up the mountains in the foreground. Niki and I jumped out of the car and set up the camera as quickly as we could. We managed to capture the scene just before the clouds covered up the sun. Contact Information Museum of Discovery and Science: 954-467-MODS AutoNation® IMAX® Theater 954-463-IMAX Weekday Operator 954-467-6637 ext.300 Concierge and Weekend Operator 954-467-6637 ext.130 | ||||||||||||
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Museum of Discovery and Science
Revving Up With Motocross Photography
Images by Satoshi Mayumi |
You don’t need expensive photographic equipment and a professional background to capture all the action on the high-speed motocross track. High-performance telezoom lenses (including Tamron’s 70-300mm Di model) are suitable, affordable choices for this type of photography that enable you to get great shots no matter where you are on the course. |
In motorsports photography, a method called “panning” is usually employed, where you “chase” the bikes with your camera’s viewfinder and pan across the visual plane. Equipment performance plays a big part in this type of photography. With conventional AF devices, it was often difficult to properly chase the main subject zipping along at high speeds—photographers were often obliged to give up chasing and take pictures in “waited focusing mode.” Now, however, AF lenses featuring USD (Ultrasonic Silent Drive) motor technology are available, making it easier to chase fast-moving subjects that were difficult to follow with conventional lenses. This capability is expanding the range of photography, even for pros. |
Tamron launched the SP 70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di VC (Vibration Compensation) USD Motor lens as its 60th anniversary commemoration model. I recently tested this USD-equipped lens, available at a price that’s affordable to amateurs heading to a race circuit. |
Location Selection |
Start photographing at one of the circuit’s hairpin turns. Every driver has to throttle down his bike on the hairpins, so it will be relatively easier for you to chase and capture the driver in your frame. In addition, the safety area at the hairpin turns is narrower than at other locations, since every driver has to slow down—that means the distance between the spectators and the circuit is relatively short. Therefore, you can take closeup shots of the racing bikes even with a 300mm telezoom lens. Since bikes are smaller than cars, fill the frame with your subject for impressive images. |
Now it’s time to start panning. This can be a difficult technique, and time is precious in motorsports photography. Practice your technique by experimenting with panning while drivers are doing preflight test runs. |
To get your panning technique down, set your camera to the shutter-speed priority auto mode and select C-mode (continuous AF servo mode, in the case of Nikon) for autofocusing. Stand up straight and “chase” the bike while capturing the driver in your viewfinder—then release the shutter button. Remember to remain relaxed: If you have an unnaturally stiff posture or are extra-tense while you’re shooting, your resulting pictures will likely be blurry due to camera shake. |
Critical to panning in photography is the shutter speed. If you use a shutter speed as fast as 1/1000th of a second, you’ll be able to take sharp pictures without blur. The resulting pictures would be monotonic, however (without a sense of speed), since the background and tires would be still and the bike would look like a plastic model. On the other hand, if you use a shutter speed as slow as 1/30th of a second, the background would flow and the resulting pictures would offer that crucial sense of speed. |
Because of the likelihood of experiencing camera shake at slower shutter speeds, start taking pictures in a shutter speed range from 1/250th to 1/500th of a second. As you get accustomed to panning, you can challenge yourself by incrementally decreasing the shutter speed. |
Focusing on the Race |
Accurate focusing is extremely important for capturing impressive images through panning. Perfect your “chasing focusing” technique, which is where you try to keep the subject (the bike) sharp and in focus while you’re “chasing” it during the panning process. |
In my own shoot, before a race started, I faced a signboard beside the circuit course and tested the AF function by half-pressing my camera’s shutter-release button. Focusing was done instantly—I found the response of the Tamron 70-300mm lens to be on par with that of a more-expensive telezoom lens in my equipment assortment. |
Finally, the race started. I tested the performance of the lens by “chasing” a bike. I found that one way to keep the subject in sharp focus with this lens was to bring the focus point faithfully to the body of the bike as my main subject. In other words, if you wish to keep focusing on the left side of a bike, half-press the shutter-release button immediately when the front left side of the bike comes into your viewfinder. The USD motor will then “chase” the main subject, even if it’s running superfast, so you can release the shutter button while securely chasing it. |
XLD Lens Elements and the VC Mechanism |
Since the Tamron 70-300mm Di lens uses XLD and LD glass elements to compensate for chromatic aberration (which often causes problems in telezoom lenses), I was impressed with its excellent resolution. In addition, the lens features the VC (Vibration Compensation) mechanism, a feature I found to be extremely helpful in dimly lit conditions (common in motorsports, like in the poorly illuminated pits). Sometimes we’re obliged to use shutter speeds as low as 1/60th of a second at a speed of ISO 400 if the diaphragm is set at F/5.6. The Vibration Compensation effect (equivalent to 4 stops, according to Tamron) is extremely useful in these situations. |
At one point in my panning work on the motocross circuit, I dared to set the VC mechanism to the “Off” position. That was because, with the VC mechanism on, I thought it was difficult to chase my main subject seamlessly—I got more of an impression that each frame was being fed as a single sharp but frozen frame. This is a matter of taste, naturally. Users will likely find the function quite helpful in such situations once they get accustomed to it. |
Decades ago, it would have been impossible to buy a high-performance lens like the SP 70-300mm Di, featuring an optical system using XLD lenses and equipped with the VC and USD technologies, at such an affordable price. This lens shows such high potential, even in the world of fast motorsports photography. I’m confident this lens will enable you to chase your main subject in other sporting events as well, including if you photograph your own children’s sporting events. With all of its advanced features, you get a lot of bang for your buck with the Tamron 70-300mm. |
About the Photographer |
Satoshi Mayumi was born in Mie Prefecture in 1976. He naturally developed his interest in racing since his family lived in Suzuka City, where Suzuka Circuit, the most famous circuit in Japan, is located. He started to visit the circuit while still a junior high school student. He tried to take pictures of bikes with his point-and-shoot camera equipped with a tele lens, but he was disappointed to find all the pictures were blurry, capturing the track only. Later, finding bike race scenes taken by pros in racing magazines, he decided he wanted to take such pictures himself and started learning photography. |
In 1999, after graduating from Nagoya Visual Art School, he started working as a freelance photographer. At present, while working as a professional motorsports photographer, he works as a contracted photographer for car and bike magazines, including such monthly magazines as Big Machines and Young Machines. |
The main subject looked too far away at the 300mm tele end of the lens on my Nikon D3, so I took this shot by using the cropping function. The bike still appeared too small in the viewfinder, lacking punch in the resulting images. So next, I decided to bank the equipment to express a sense of speed, which resulted in this interesting shot with a sense of space. Focal Length: 300mm (equivalent to 450mm), Exposure: F/13 at 1/200 sec, ISO: 200, WB: Manual, APS-C size |
The rider gazes fixedly at one point to sharpen his concentration before starting. Tension runs high, and time stands still while the engines ring out. I tried to capture the focused expression of the rider at the 300mm tele end of the lens to avoid disturbing him. Focal Length: 300mm, Exposure: F/5.6 at 1/200 sec, ISO: 400, +0.7 exposure compensation, WB: Auto, Full-size |
The driver passes a corner and gathers speed, applying load on the rear tire. I took this shot at 1/320th of a second to fill the frame with the bike while expressing a sense of the speed. Focal Length: 300mm (equivalent to 450mm), Exposure: F/9.0 at 1/320 sec, ISO: 200, WB: Manual, APS-C size |
This is a shot from a high-speed corner, where every photographer has the chance to confront the racing machines. At such a corner, it’s difficult for beginners to fill the frame with the vehicle while accurately chasing it. Even pros must sharpen their concentration to accurately chase their subjects. You need to use a fast shutter speed to capture such fast-moving subjects as this. Focal Length: 300mm, Exposure: F/5.6 at 1/500 sec, ISO: 400, WB: Auto, Full-size |
This is a special shot of the rider Yusuke Tejima. I asked to reproduce a moment before starting in his pit. I applied strobe light from one side to illuminate only a portion of his face. I tried to take a picture expressing the mentality of the driver by exaggerating contrast. Focal Length: 170mm, Exposure: F/9.0 at 1/250 sec, ISO: 200, -0.3 exposure compensation, WB: auto, Full-size |
The driver stamps on the accelerator immediately after passing the first corner. I tried to express the feeling of the battle by including other bikes in the blurry background. I took this picture from a varied angle while slanting my camera to express a sense of acceleration and to create the impression of the bike going up a slope. At a location where you can watch bikes racing toward you, it’s relatively easy to take pictures such as this. Focal Length: 300mm (equivalent to 450mm), Exposure: F/7.1 at 1/320 sec, ISO: 200, WB: Manual, APS-C size |
Generally speaking, it’s difficult to get close to the drivers, but sometimes you may find such a location as this if you’re lucky. If you’re able to position yourself like this, take close-ups like the one shown here. Omit the rear portion and concentrate on the front to exaggerate the impression of racing in fast-forward motion. Focal Length: 300mm, Exposure: F/5.6 at 1/320 sec, ISO: 320, WB: Manual, Full-size |
Sunday, September 26, 2010
A great lens for Nikon Cameras. Look at the price and compare.......
Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5 - 5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR (Vibration Reduction) Zoom Nikkor Lens - Refurbished by Nikon U.S.A.
Nikon AF-S VR Zoom-NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G IF-ED Telephoto Zoom Lens
- 4 Stops of Vibration Reduction (VR II)
- Internal Focusing
- Non-Rotating Front Element
- 67mm Filter Size
- Silent Wave Motor
- Price : $ 589.95
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Nikon ViewNX and Nikon Transfer
- ViewNX is an application for organizing, sorting, displaying, viewing, and adjusting images captured by digital cameras.p>
- With ViewNX, you can handle RAW (NEF) and JPEG image files that were recorded simultaneously at shooting as one file, enabling easy organization of your digital images. Also, you can switch between RAW (NEF) and JPEG images by a single click, helping you check RAW image details easily.
Moreover, you can visually sort or organize images by labeling classified images based on the scene or by setting the priority of each image using the Rating function.
- Also, by uploading files such as image and movie files to "my Picturetown", you can further enjoy organizing and viewing them.
- ViewNX also allows you to edit the XMP/IPTC Information and add the photographer's name, locations, or comments, to facilitate text-based information management. If shooting locations are embedded in images as GPS information, you can check them on a map.
- ViewNX provides image adjustment functions, such as color tone or gradation adjustments, for NEF format RAW images. Some of these adjustments are also applicable to JPEG, TIFF, and NRW format RAW images.
- Other features include letting you add frequently used folders to the favorite folder, checking details of an image in multiple-screen environments, or playing recorded movies or sounds.
Nikon Transfer
- Allows for simple transfer of images captured with a Nikon digital camera or images recorded to media such as memory cards to a computer. Designed for easy integration with ViewNX and Capture NX software.
- Allows for back-up copying and embedding of information including copyright into image data during transfer.
- For more information, please click the appropriate link to the right.
DOWNLOAD
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Hoodman Professional 3" LCD Screen Loupe for Canon & Nikon
Description
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Wednesday, September 15, 2010
The New Nikon D7000: Simply Amazing
The New Nikon D7000: Simply Amazing
Nikon's D7000 features a new 16.2-megapixel DX (APS-C) format CMOS sensor, backed by Nikon's new EXPEED 2 imaging processor, which can capture up to 100 still images (14-bit A/D conversion) at speeds up to 6 frames per second. Add to this 50-millisecond shutter response times, an all new 39-point Multi-Cam 4800DX AF module with 9 center cross-type sensors configurable in combinations of 9, 21, 39 or a 21-point ring configuration to match any number of shooting situations and a new 2,016-pixel RGB 3D Matrix Metering system for deadly accurate exposures.
But the biggest breakthrough has to do with video capture, which in the case of Nikon's D7000, boils down to full 1080p HD video WITH FULL-TIME AF and MANUAL CONTROL. In addition to full-time autofocus, the D7000 also features variable frame rates and resolution, 1080p recording at a cinema-like 24 fps, or for Web use, 720p at a choice of 24 or 30 fps for clips up to 20 minutes long.
Other video-recording features include face priority tracking for up to 35 faces, subject tracking and normal or wide-area autofocus. The D7000 also offers you the time-saving option of editing and trimming video clips in-camera in order to save post-production processing time. And yes, there's a stereo input jack as well as the ability to use wireless or hotshoe-mounted microphones for pro-quality sound. In a nutshell, Nikon's D7000 simply shatters all competitors in its class.
In terms of construction, the D7000 is equally up to par and features weather-resistant magnesium-alloy construction with silicon seals all around. The layout of the D7000 camera controls and command dials have been reconfigured to enable quicker, more intuitive on-the-fly camera operation. Along with a bright optical viewing system that affords 100% of the total viewing area, the D7000 also features a 3.0", 921,000-dot LCD with Live View (and 100% viewing area) for real-time composing, viewing and editing of stills and video.
The newest pro-level Nikon has a native ISO range of 100 to 6400 and can be extended upwards to an equivalent of ISO 25,600 in Hi-2 mode when shooting under extremely low-light conditions. For recording stills and video, the D7000 features dual SD/SDHC/SDXC-compatible card slots that can be configured to record your efforts in several variations including separate JPEG, RAW and/or movie files. As for power, the D7000 is equally up to par and features a new EN-EL15 lithium-ion battery that's good for up to 1,050 shots per charge.
As one would expect, the D7000 can capture JPEGs, RAW or a combination of RAW+JPEG, and RAW files can be processed in-camera along with special effects from the camera's Retouch menu, which includes color filters, distortion controls for fisheye effects, perspective control and a new sketch filter that renders sketch-style imagery, all of which are saved as separate new files, leaving the original files unaltered. In addition to these creative filters, the Nikon D7000 also includes a full roster of Scene Modes and color-rendition filters.
The new Nikon D7000 is available as a body only or with an AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6 ED VR lens, and is expected to be in stock by mid-October, 2010.
And without a doubt, we look forward to conducting a full hands-on review of this neat machine as soon as one comes our way.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
How to Take Great Photographs of Sunsets
How to Take Great Photographs of Sunsets
Article by the New York Institute of Photography
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Photographing moving water
Photographing moving water
You can elevate your photos of moving water from “Okay” to “Wow!” by stretching out your exposure time. While fast exposures freeze the look of moving water, long exposures produce misty creeks and waterfalls and impart a silky smooth, dreamy quality to larger bodies of water.
Go long on exposure
To give your photos of surf, creeks and waterfalls that misty, dreamy quality, dial down your camera’s ISO and aperture as far as possible. The idea is to get your shutter speed down to a half-second or longer to capture cascading currents, and even longer exposures – up to 20 seconds or more – are needed to smooth out ripples and waves.
Check out your camera manual to learn how Program mode can lower the shutter speed. You’ll have to step away from your camera’s automatic settings a bit to get these types of photographs.
Lighting
The best light for shooting moving water occurs early or late in the day when lighting is less intense, warm and at a low angle. This time of day, known as the Golden Hour, is a favorite among photographers.
You can also shoot moving water almost any time on an overcast day. Direct sunlight casts harsh shadows and makes it difficult to achieve the long exposure time needed to blur the water’s movement.
Filtering your water
In addition to decreasing the ISO and aperture, use a circular polarizing filter to cut the light further. A polarizer also minimizes bright reflections in the water that can show up as distracting blown-out white blotches.
Placing a neutral density filter on top of the polarizer will cut the light even further, ensuring that your exposure time is plenty long enough to make moving water go misty.
More hints for photographing water on the move
- You’ll need a sturdy tripod or other means of holding the camera still, such as bracing the camera against a solid object. This is a must for minimizing camera shake during long exposure times.
- Try to get as close as you can to the moving water and set up low to the ground. This will magnify the effect of the water’s motion and make it more prominent in your picture’s composition.
- The great thing about digital photography is that you can easily try out some shots, note the results and make adjustments as needed.
Controlling the depth of field (DOF)
Controlling the depth of field (DOF), or how much of your shot is in focus, is simple enough, and can have a real impact on your photos.
Chances are not everything in your picture will be the same distance from the camera. In some cases you want as much of the photo in focus as possible (when shooting a group of people for instance), but in other cases you can help draw attention to the one subject in focus by having the rest of the background out of focus and therefore blurry (most commonly used in portraits). The following two photos demonstrate the difference. In both cases I focused the camera on the red car in front.
For a shallow depth of field:
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