Thursday, July 29, 2010
Photo to canvas useful links
http://www.mpix.com/
http://www.bayphoto.com/
http://www.dalelabs.com This is a local company located in Hollywood.
2960 Simms Street, Hollywood, Florida 33020-1579
Toll Free (800) 327-1776 • FAX (954) 922-3008
Contact Us At: dalelabs@aol.com
Photo albums and books
http://www.adoramapix.com
http://www.blurb.com, I tried them, good prints!!!
http://www.shutterfly.com, I tried them, good prints!!!
http://www.mypublisher.com, I tried them, good prints!!!
Poster printing, I tried them, awesome prints!!!
http://www.shortrunposters.com
Acrylic
http://mpixpro.com/Catalog.aspx/acrylicprints
Canvas
http://www.canvasondemand.com/
http://www.simplycanvas.com/
http://www.millerslab.com/
http://mpixpro.com/Default.aspx
http://www.whcc.com/
http://www.pixel2canvas.com/
http://www.photogonia.com/
http://www.uprinting.com/
http://imagekind.com/
http://www.prophotoimaging.com/
http://americanarteditions.com/
http://artisticphotocanvas.com/
http://zebracolor.com/
http://www.artscow.com/photo-gifts/cat0503
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
The Soft Focus Screen
By André Costantini
It seems that people are often concerned with getting the sharpest optics available. I can recall back in another age where people would spend literally thousands upon thousands of dollars to get the sharpest lenses that the world had to offer to then put a soft focus filter on it because it was “too sharp” for photographing the imperfections of people. I understand wanting the sharpest lenses so that you have the option of “how sharp” you want it. It is just one of those little quirks that makes me laugh. With today’s technology lenses are sharper than ever and most photographers now do most of their softening in the computer.
Earlier this month I picked up my camera as I noticed that the light off the water coming through the window screen. Not only was the image diffused, but the bright reflections of the sun also created little dotted crosses in the highlights. It just happened to be one of those things that I came across, purely by accident. It was an observation, a moment that probably required the angle of the sun and my distance to the subject and window screen to be just right. The effect looks like I used one of those star filters or some nifty Photoshop effect.
Now it’s not that I can’t do this in Photoshop, well actually I’ve never tried so I have no idea, but I am a firm believer that if you see something you like the way it is, you might as well photograph it that way. I like having options, but I also like getting results. And I always try to remember that doing as much as you can to get your image the way you want it whilst in the field will save you a ton of time in front of the computer.
Speaking of which, it wasn’t until I got the image on the computer that I noticed that you can actually see the dock through the subject. And the highlight by her leg appears to almost in the foreground. I’m no physicist, but I am guessing that the window screen literally caused this by making multiple images on top of each other and thus seeing multiple angles simultaneously, literally allowing you to see through the person. My assumption was that there must have been some serious diffraction going on and with some half-hearted research I conceded that the inter-web seemed to agree with me.
Just for kicks I went into Photoshop to see what would happen if I attempted to create this effect. And what did I find? If I had one image layered on top of another image and used the Screen blending mode on top layer, it created an extreme version of that effect on my image. Then if I duplicated the bottom layer, changed the opacity of the middle layer and combined the top two, the effect was almost identical. I guess it turns out those people at Adobe named the blending mode, Screen for a good reason. So even though I still can’t explain to you the exact science of how it happened, I can tell you my observation led me to a discovery. Now if I could just get Photoshop to make those little bright crosses…
Using Photographic Reflectors |
I had an email last Sunday from a student asking how she should begin with using photographic reflectors for portraiture.
Great idea for a photography tip - so thanks Christine, this one’s for you.
You can make a photographic reflector from just about anything that’ll reflect light.
I frequently use the large white envelopes my lab sends my prints back in.
My first photography reflector was made from a two foot square piece of sand blasted sheet metal.
I painted one side silver and the other white, then drilled a hole in the middle to attach it to a tripod head so I could still use it even when I didn’t have anyone to hold it for me.
Just to prove you don’t have to use specialist kit - in this tip Lorna’s demonstrating how she uses one of the lab’s envelopes to push a bit of light back into her friend Sian’s face.
Look how much brighter the image is in ‘reflectored’ version compared to the one where no reflector was used at all. Sian's high cheek bones are more defined, her eye's are clear and sparkling and everything about it is just - well, smoother somehow.
In the first picture there's a deep shadow at Sian's collar bones which is softened and lifted by the light being reflected back in by Lorna with something as simple as an envelope.
All photography depends on light. The better the quality of light - the better the picture.
Here are a few photography tips to help you get started with using a photographic reflector
- Be subtle, you don’t want your image to look over done. When correctly used the image looks bright but natural.
- For women - position the reflector in front and slightly below to add sparkle to the eyes and lift shadows under the nose and chin.
- For men - a reflector to the side can bring out the facial contours making them look extra rugged and manly.
- On a dull day try using a gold coloured photographic reflector to improve skin tones.
- If you’re back lighting your sitter (as I am in these demonstrations) a reflector pushes light back and balances the direct sunlight coming from behind your sitter.
Use a window that faces away from the sun as your light source with a reflector placed opposite (the side away from the window) to lift the shadows on the dark side.
- Photographic reflectors aren’t just for portraiture try using one for still life or macro to bounce a bit more directional light into your pictures.
- If making your own reflector don’t make it too shiny (ie gloss paint) because the result will be too strong and harsh. The whole point is to create soft directional light. Matt paint or a slightly rough surface shatter the rays and soften the light.
For this reason mirrors make crap photographic reflectors unless you want to use them as a kind of spot light
Photographic reflectors are handy tools which when used appropriately will give your pictures an ‘edge’.
They’re simple to use and if you’re making your own they’re very cheap - but like everything else in life you need to practice and get some experience before you’ll master it.
So as homework I suggest you find someone who enjoys having their photo taken - or a shop window dummy which works just as well for practicing on. Then grab your camera and a reflector and get practicing.
It's important to experiment with different angles, turn the reflector back and fourth to see what happens. I can tell you things till I'm blue in the face - but what always makes the difference is getting into action and having a go yourself.
Photo Contest by Tamron
PHOTO CONTEST NUMBER THREE 2010 | |||
Contest Dates: | |||
PICK your Prize: Your choice of one of these lenses AF18-270mm F/3.5-6.3 VC Di-II SP AF17-50mm F/2.8 Di-II VC SP AF10-24mm F/3.5-4.5 Di-II or SP AF60mm F/2 Di-II | |||
Subject: SUMMER RITUALS Contest Number Three. | |||
Theme: We're looking for photos that capture the essence of summer: backyard BBQs, lakes, pools, beach, sprinklers, summer camp, fireflies, fireworks, watermelon... There's so much to capture during this wonderfully colorful and short time of year.
The pictures on the subject matter must be in good taste. Only three (3) entries per person.
The Grand Prize Winner will have his/her choice of a Tamron SP AF10-24 F/3.5-4.5 Di-II lens for Canon, Nikon, Pentax or Sony APS-C DSLR ($499 value), a Tamron SP AF17-50mm F/2.8 VC Di-II for Canon or Nikon APS-C DSLR ($649 value), a Tamron SP AF60mm F2 Di-II 1:1 Macro lens for Canon, Nikon or Sony APS-C DSLR ($569 value) or a Tamron AF18-270mm F/3.5-6.3 VC Di-II lens for Canon or Nikon APS-C DSLR ($629 value). Twenty finalists will be selected to be featured on Tamron's website. Winners will be announced on 10/15/10 on the Tamron website and Tamron Fan page on Facebook.
| |||
HOW TO ENTER
RULES
| |||
* Click here for form to submit with any mail in entry. | |||
*Mail submissions to: | Tamron USA, Inc. 10 Austin Blvd. Commack, NY 11725 Attn: Summer Rituals Photo Contest | Or email to: webmaster@tamron.com Subject Line: Summer Rituals Photo Contest |
Nikon News
Redefinition of photography on cards, says Nikon |
Nikon President Makoto Kimura has hinted that the company plans to launch a mirrorless camera system which would demand a 'redefinition of photography.'
In an recent interview with Japanese trade publication Pen News Weekly, Kimura was asked if Nikon planned to launch its own compact camera system as competitors Sony, Panasonic and Olympus have done.
He replied that, whilst manufacturers of new camera systems 'may intend to take a share of the DSLR market, Nikon intends to retain its 'top position' in the DSLR category.' He also said that his company intended to create an 'entirely new domain.'
Kimura went on to say, "It would be a camera that may take photos of the world that the traditional SLR cannot reach.
"Nowadays digital cameras take movies, performance of cameraphones is rapidly advancing and demand for simple movie cameras for uploading video on the internet is on the rise. Redefinition of photography may become necessary," he added.
In related news, Nikon has announced that its 33rd annual international digital photo competition will be open for entries from 1 September 2010. Interested parties can go online to submit up to two images to either of the two categories - one with the theme 'Energy' and the other an un-themed category.
The overall winner will be awarded the company's D3S digital SLR with two lenses, with category winners receiving a D300S with flashgun and lenses. The contest runs until 30 November 2010.
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Macro Photography (Extreme Close-Up) Basics
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4cBkl9lO6Ob87izxnpflNBXi8YC541HZMwGJFvxhn2b_UhgWVIyB3zOL6dO5SInpcgBSh5lXVXZSU5BPZ9FswGHTyToyV_UabQjkiuQWFZ7n7rNk1lrZ0kvBGdr2C3UwV2Yf5enf3uqSm/s400/_DSC0188_+Micro+f+2.8.jpg)
1. Choose a medium telephoto macro lens (about 90-180mm for full frame cameras or 60-90mm for small sensor cameras). A comfortable working distance (distance between the front-end of the lens to the subject) gives you the necessary room for lighting and other gadgets that you may need for extreme close-up photography.
2. Get yourself a sturdy tripod to eliminate possible camera shake during long exposures which is common in close-up photography. High magnification also increases the effect of camera shake.
3. Carefully choose your camera position. Do not cast your own or the camera's shadow on the subjects. Look for the most pleasing lines and shadow pattern falling on the subject.
4. Switch to manual focus. Autofocus often does not work well in extreme close-ups that are half life- to full life-size shots. Focus on the middle area of the subject and stop down the lens aperture as much as the light allows (try to reach F/16 or F/22 if possible). This will give you the most depth-of-field possible (zone from front to back that is in sharp focus). If your camera is on a tripod, the long shutter speeds are fine, so long as the wind doesn’t blow, moving the subject.
5. Bracket your exposure in half-stop increments under and over exposed. Take at least two under steps and two over steps.
NIKON TRANSFER and NIKON VIEWNX, basic instructions
• Open Nikon Transfer if it did not open automatically.
• Press Start Transfer.
• Open Nikon ViewNX if it did not open automatically.
• Now you will be able to see your pictures in order to categorize them.
• First of all discard all you bad pictures via Delete or right click Move to Trash.
• Now that you have your acceptable pictures, let’s categorize them in order to be more stringent.
• Double click on the first picture to make it full screen.
• If you like it, assign a category number such as 1, 2 etc.
• Keep on selecting and assigning categories.
• After completion press Display images for specified labels in the top left area of the screen, these are the little circles with numbers.
• After pressing the desired category or label, you will just see your categorized pictures and not the unselected rest.
• You can still keep selecting pictures using Stars for instance and repeat the process till you have your final depurated selection of images you like.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ADDING METADATA AND PREFERENCES IN NIKON TRANSFER
• Press the Embedded info tab.
• Edit the IPTC presets and complete info at will.
• Press the Preferences tab.
• Check Launch automatically when device is attached.
• Check Quit Nikon Transfer….. after transfer.
• Check Transfer only new photos.
• Check Open destination folder …. With application and assign ViewNX to do it.
• Press the Primary destination tab.
• Assign your Primary destination folder.
• Check Create sub folder for each transfer.
• Edit it and put your information, I use date shot only, in order to get my pictures organized by the date of shooting.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR EMAILING DIRECTLY FROM NIKON VIEWNX
• First of all you need to have an email program installed in your computer such as MS Outlook or Mail in Mac.
• Select the picture that you want to email in ViewNX.
• Right click and scroll down to Output, Email.
• Adjust settings at will, and then press Send to start the process.